So you have learned about Light Tanks and mastered the Medium Tanks, can you handle the Heavies?
Heavy Tanks share some similarities with the Medium Tank range in that some tanks were born to sit back and snipe, others were to be support.... but some of these metal behemoths were designed to be the spearhead of an armoured assault, a breakthrough tank. Learning what your tank is capable of and designed to do is 80% of the battle in World of Tanks.
Check out my other World of Tanks previews and guides.
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The fearsome IS-3 stalks it's prey supported by a friendly KV-3 |
A heavy tank is one which carries a large amount of thick, often sloped, armour around all 4 sides and usually a turret to match. They mount some of the most powerful guns available in the game and can be quite capable of wiping out Tier 5 Medium Tanks and Tier 5 Tank Destroyers in a single shot. I have very often been on the wrong end of a gun from a Heavy Tank, trust me on this one!!
To offset these rather large advantages, they are often slow and not very good at turning. Their turret traverse is often sluggish compared to the Light and Medium class of tanks. This also makes these mammoths susceptible to artillery fire which can actually destroy them in one shot depending on the artillery and the accuracy of the shell fired.
Like with all of the tanks previously, there are some basic rules to follow:
Like with all of the tanks previously, there are some basic rules to follow:
- Do not go gung-ho towards an enemy position unless you know you overpower their group and won't take much damage. You are well armoured but you are not invincible and the enemy will tell you that.
- Do not hide back at base and expect light and medium tanks to scout for you so that you can snipe at the enemy and avoid repair bills. Move your backside, join with a few other tanks in a battle group formation and be there to steamroller the opposition.
- Learn your speed, turning circle, turret speed and gun reload times.Whilst knowing the mechanical limits of your hardware is required in all other tanks, it is most important in your heavy tank. It often takes a long time to reload or to turn and face an opponent so prepare yourself adequately positionally and be aware that a miss can be costly to your Hitpoints.
- Cover your rear. Most tanks can only deal damage to your front if they hit a critical area such as the lower tracks or commanders view port. Not too many tanks can penetrate your side armour consistently and tracking is not extremely common. Your rear is most vulnerable to even Tier 6 Medium Tanks. Your medium and light tank companions should help in this regard. If you are alone.... why?!
- You are often the bullet magnet for your time. Their guns will magically point in your direction and spit forth shells, most of which will plink and plunk off your mighty suit of armour. Use this to your teams advantage by making your presence known. The enemy can concentrate on you whilst your relieved team members should be able to mop up enemy forces much easier without the fear of being blown sky high.
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The German Maus as spotted by a rather frightened A-20 (Courtesy of Gorthan) |
I might sound like a broken record but you really must learn your tank inside and out. For example if you take a KV in a max Tier 5 match and decide to go solo, a simple Leopard will spend 5 minutes circling you and LOL'ing every time he punches a hole in your armour. The reason for this is that the KV is slow, turns even slower and depending on the turret it turns very slow or extremely slow. It is best to sit slightly behind your team or moving battle group to be able to make best use of your powerful arsenal without your lack of mobility being a drawback.
Another example is the IS-3. For it's tier and classification as a heavy tank, it is rather maneuverable and can be played more akin to the heavy version of one of the nippy, Russian T-series tanks.
The IS-4, IS-7, VK4502(P) Ausf B and the Maus are all tier 9 and 10 tanks often classified as super heavy tanks. They represent the biggest tanks designed around the World of Tanks era, whether they saw production or not. Their stats reflect their stature and they should be played accordingly. These behemoths can be impossible to run perpetually, costing more credits to repair/reload with ammo than can be recouped in a great fight but they are definitely something which strike fear into the heart of the opponent and act as the biggest bullet magnets around.
When we looked at the Light Tanks and Medium Tanks, we suggested that the most logical advancement path would be Engine/Suspension first, then probably radio, turret then finally gun. With heavy tanks this path can also be very similar, front-loading it with the engine and suspension upgrades to make the moving around the map part more tolerable. Often you will have already researched a useful gun or two via previous tanks so it may be prudent to go for the upgraded turret first. There is no hard and fast rule here so go with what you feel works best.
KV and KV-3 on the Russian side can be complete pigs to drive and handle but things smooth out a bit with the introduction of the IS line. The Germans are always complaining that their Tiger and Tiger II do not match up to the might of the Russian equivalent.
Having faced down all manner of tanks in combat I do honestly feel that Russian heavy tanks bounce my shots far more often than their German counterparts. I cannot back this up with figures, only my own feeling and interpretations of the game based upon combat situations.
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A German Tiger II prowls the streets of Ensk (Courtesy of Skott) |
When we looked at the Light Tanks and Medium Tanks, we suggested that the most logical advancement path would be Engine/Suspension first, then probably radio, turret then finally gun. With heavy tanks this path can also be very similar, front-loading it with the engine and suspension upgrades to make the moving around the map part more tolerable. Often you will have already researched a useful gun or two via previous tanks so it may be prudent to go for the upgraded turret first. There is no hard and fast rule here so go with what you feel works best.
KV and KV-3 on the Russian side can be complete pigs to drive and handle but things smooth out a bit with the introduction of the IS line. The Germans are always complaining that their Tiger and Tiger II do not match up to the might of the Russian equivalent.
Having faced down all manner of tanks in combat I do honestly feel that Russian heavy tanks bounce my shots far more often than their German counterparts. I cannot back this up with figures, only my own feeling and interpretations of the game based upon combat situations.
My other guides
- M26 Pershing, A Guide to...
- The KV, A Guide to...
- General FAQ
- Darkburrow's SPG Guide
- SPG (Artillery) Guide
- Tank Destroyer Guide
- Medium Tanks Guide
- Light Tanks Guide
Check out my other World of Tanks previews and guides.
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An IS tank on the move. A fearsome Russian Heavy Tank (Courtesy of Dark) |
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The IS-7, the epitome of heavy tanks in the World of Tanks game |
21 comments:
This'll be very helpful for when I reach my heavy tank. Thanks for writing it up!
Tigers were not designed tih sloaped frontal armor to bounce projectiles.
How about american heavy/medium tanks :P
The guide was written before American tanks were introduced. I am looking to update the guides but will probably wait until v.0.6.2.4 arrives before making any amendments.
shoot up their @ss
Cool IS tanks have the edge over tigers in armor and close quarters.A tiger 88mm is far more accurate and has a higher penetration compared too the IS tanks.The Tiger can win a long range encounter but in close quarters its trickier :P.Thx for the guides they are vry usefull.
Surely the sloped armor of the russian heavies reflects shots more often than their german counterparts.
Historical fact is, that the long 88 of the tiger could penetrate the IS singleshot via 1km! The mighty shells of the IS didn't penetrate but often blew off the tigers turret...
So the russian tanks seem a bit overpowered...
A well thought out ,, sire thx for the info ,, being an EX- Tank soldier I can only agree with what you have put up here ,,more people should be paying attention too your information here ...
Regards Filbee786
I want to ask becouse i alredy have Tiger II im working hardly to reach E-100,is it good tier 10 tank ?
i agree the tiger long 88 could wipe an IS out no problem and the only way the IS could kill a tiger was shooting in between the turret and the hull.
i personally thing that the KV isnt that bad
I have E-100 and i can tell you he is really good but u also need great skills where to penetrate,and with the big gun(150mm) u can rape them :))
I think M6 better than KV-3 and KV-IS
the E-100 is good to
the pz111 is realy good for it teir
i think this will really help, if i ever get to a heavy tank that is
What about french tanks?
what about Maus ?
are you obsessed with German and Russian tanks? tbh it seems like it. thats what id like to point out.
otherwise very good
anonymous said...
are you obsessed with German and Russian tanks? tbh it seems like it. thats what id like to point out.
Try finding tanks other than Russian or German when I wrote this guide :) US tanks were not introduced until 11th November 2010.
Obsessed with them? No, I wrote about them because there were no other tanks to write about.
go for gun last?
stock gun are most often shit for your tier, you cant do anything unless you flank tanks(which is hard with a slow heavy and wont always happen)
Always go for top gun first, unless its a scout tank. Go turret if you need it for top gun, and go suspension if you need it for new turret/new gun.
A slow and good armor tank wont do much with a shit gun, and a fast tank will only be able to spot/shoot at flanks/rear/weakspots while any tank with a good gun can just sit there or poke and shoot at whatever they see
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